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Turning inland, you will notice that the sharp, jagged peaks of the
mountains puncture the skyline and as the sun goes down the shadows
hover ominously whilst the light slips silently away.
Pulpi lies
on the plain between Huercal Overa and the coast, not far from the
resort of San Juan de los Terreros.
Like the towns of La
Fuente, Benzal, Jaravia and Terreros, it is situated in an area once
dependent on iron-mining and the remains of this industry abandoned in
the middle of the 20th century are still evident.
Agriculture is
now the main source of income and the surrounding fields are full of
vegetables, many of which are exported to the United Kingdom. Indeed, if
you buy melons from Tesco’s there is a good chance that they come from
here. This is very much an agricultural town and although many of the
houses have been renovated and new ones built, on the whole they are
simple homes, reflecting the fact that the inhabitants of Pulpi work
hard on the land. However, the church of San Miguel built in 1801 in
the Plaza Mayor presents an example of vaulting known as cimbres or
clouds, a local architectural style made popular because of the lack of
wood for roof-building. The vaulted nave was restored between 1986 and
1987.
Many northern Europeans have bought the cortijos
(farmhouses) that dot the countryside around Pulpi. They have restored
them and brought new life back into the area and now the town is slowly
expanding and has bars, restaurants and a bodega, where wines and
spirits are sold at very reasonable prices providing you supply your own
container, bringing a whole new meaning to the term “bring a bottle!”
The chief market town of Huercal Overa is a result of the union of
two medieval settlements: Huercal and Overa. Nestling between two
branches of the Almanzora river, it’s a thriving agricultural district
largely dependent for its prosperity on the lead mining in the
surrounding highlands. Although a market town (with the market held
every Monday morning), the town has excellent facilities with a
municipal swimming pool and leisure centre, and an exceptional major,
modern teaching hospital situated less than 1km from the main
North-South coastal motorway.
The religious architecture of the
town is impressive, with two Parish Churches and the Chapel of Jesus
Nazareno. Founded in1749, it contains a magnificent statue of the
aforementioned Jesus which was carved in the same year by Francisco
Salzillo.
Other buildings of interest include the bell tower
dating from the Middle Ages, the old Posito (Granary) and the Via Crucis
which leads to the Hermitage del Cavario.
Every Easter week sees
the procession through the town to celebrate the Passion of Christ. Here
groups of statues are carried on floats by figures clad in white, brown
or black robes. This spectacle has been declared a National Tourist
Attraction.
Some years ago an abundance of almond, olive, citrus
and pine trees were planted. These are now relatively mature and have
created the first forest in the area for over 500 years. Further forests
are planned to bring much-needed lush greenery to the area.
There are many more towns and villages in this particular part of Spain
which can be regarded as “Jewels in the Crown”, but these, my friend,
are for you to discover……………………..

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